Get your equipment ready for bow hunting season

I will begin and end this article with the same advice: If you are experiencing any problems, issues or questions with your bow or archery equipment, seek the help of your local archery professional. This gear is both expensive and potentially dangerous.

Let's look at some things you can do in August to get ready to start shooting arrows in September and hunting in October. The vast majority of bowhunters do not shoot the year round, which is unfortunate. If your bow has been cased since last winter, please read the following very carefully.

<h3 class="leadin">String: The string on your bow has an expiration date, whether you realize it or not. How long has it been since you put a new string on your bow? Most likely, too long. Examine your string carefully for signs of wear and/or stress. Check closely around the bow's pulleys. Look for thin or frayed areas. Also look for wear on the server, where the arrow is nocked. If your string has a "D" ring, check it for tightness so it does not slip out of position. Check it for wear, as well.</h3>

<h3 class="leadin">Limbs: Because the limbs are the largest components of your bow it just stands to reason that they likely take the most abuse. This is where the stress is in your bow and great care must be taken. If your bow remains fully strung all year, it stresses both the limbs and the string. This stress can cause weakening over time. I fully understand that unstringing your bow causes you to have to restring it before you shoot, but if you do not shoot for months at a time this may lengthen the life of your bow.</h3>

When checking the limbs look for nicks and chips. Make sure the limbs have not warped or twisted in storage. A careful inspection now could save you both money and pain down the road. When a bow limb fails it is not pretty.

<h3 class="leadin">Pulleys: While doing your limb inspection be sure to give the pulleys a good look, too. The main thing to look for here is that the cables are in the cable channels on both ends. A drop of lube on the pulley axles would not hurt, either.</h3>

<h3 class="leadin">Riser: There is not really much to check on the riser of your recurve or compound bow. The arrow rest is the most crucial part of the riser. If this component is not in perfect tune with the string and the limbs, accuracy will suffer. You might also want to check any stick-on pads or bumpers to make sure they are secure.</h3>

<h3 class="leadin">Arrow and broad heads: Believe it or not, there are still many bowhunters who shoot aluminum arrows. If this describes you, then bent or bowed arrows are a disaster. Check them on an arrow roller. With carbon arrows, look for splintering or splits. Check your nocks and broad head inserts.</h3>

Speaking of broad heads, there are three major types: stationary heads that must be manually sharpened; stationary heads that have replaceable blades; and mechanical broad heads.

If you still use the old style broad heads then you should know to sharpen them on a stone. This process should be repeated regularly throughout the season. Most likely your stationary heads have razor blades that should be replaced before each hunting season. Like any razor blade, they will lose some edge over time. New blades are both inexpensive and easy to switch out. This is crucial for pass-through penetration.

Mechanical broad heads also employ razor blades. Depending upon the manufacturer, these cutting edges may or may not be replaceable. Check your mechanical heads to make sure you are good to go.

No matter what, shoot early and shoot often. If any issue pops up, consult your local archery professional. Good luck this fall.</group><group id="24A083D9-412D-4FEE-BB77-F5C4181E2214"